Concealed Door Closers: Types, Fire Door Rules and How to Choose

A concealed door closer does the same job as the familiar arm-and-box closer you see at the top of office doors: it pulls the door shut after someone walks through. The difference is that the mechanism is hidden inside the door leaf and frame, so when the door is closed you can’t see it at all.

That makes concealed closers a natural partner for flush, frameless and concealed doors, where the whole point is a clean, uninterrupted wall.

This guide explains the main types, what the fire door rules actually say, and the questions to ask before you choose one.

What is a concealed door closer?

A concealed door closer is a self-closing device that’s recessed into the door and its frame instead of being fixed to the face of the door. Most use a spring to close the door, and the better ones add a hydraulic damper to control the closing speed so the door doesn’t slam.

The main types of concealed door closer

Jamb-mounted (Perko-style) closers

These fit horizontally into the hanging edge of the door, with a chain or rod that anchors into a plate in the frame jamb. When you open the door the chain pulls out and loads a spring; when you let go, the spring draws the door closed.

There are two broad groups:

• Basic spring closers. Simple chain-spring units are cheap and discreet, but they don’t control the closing speed. Samuel Heath, which makes the Perko range, is clear that its standard Perko R1/R2 and Perkomatic R85 closers are not compliant with BS EN 1154 and should not be fitted to fire doors.
• Controlled (hydraulic) jamb closers. Models such as the Samuel Heath Powermatic R100 add hydraulic control. The manufacturer states it is type tested to BS EN 1154 at power size 3 and approved under BS EN 1634-1 for use on FD30 and FD60 timber fire doors. Stockists list a maximum door weight of 80kg, a maximum width of 950mm, a maximum opening angle of 105° and a minimum door thickness of 44mm.

A version called the Powermatic Axis R108 is designed specifically to work with the Simonswerk Tectus concealed hinge system, which is common on high-end flush doors.

Integrated overhead (slide channel) closers

Here the closer body is set into the top edge of the door, or into the head of the frame, with an arm that runs in a slim channel. The channel is only visible when the door is open.

Two well-known examples are the dormakaba ITS 96 and the GEZE Boxer. dormakaba says the ITS 96 suits doors 40mm thick or more, is third-party tested to BS EN 1154 and holds Certifire approval, with options such as a cushioned limit stay and hold-open. GEZE says the Boxer works with leaves up to 1,400mm wide and 180kg, from 40mm thick, and can be used on fire and smoke doors where the door’s own proof of suitability allows it.

Self-closing concealed hinges

Some concealed hinges have a closing spring built in, so the hinges themselves pull the door shut. They’re the most discreet option of all because there’s no separate closer. We cover these in more detail in our concealed door hinges guide. On a fire door, they’re only acceptable if the door’s test evidence covers that exact hinge.

Concealed door closers on fire doors

Does a fire door need a closer?

Approved Document B (Volume 1, which covers dwellings in England) says fire doorsets should be fitted with a self-closing device. It specifically includes flat entrance doors and the door between a house and an integral garage. There are exceptions, including fire doorsets to cupboards, service ducts that are normally kept locked, and fire doorsets within flats and houses.

So in a typical house, a fire door onto a protected stairway doesn’t need a closer under that guidance, but the door from the house into an integral garage does. Commercial and multi-occupied buildings have their own requirements, and your building control body or fire risk assessor has the final say.

Power size matters

BS EN 1154 grades closers by power size. For fire and smoke doors, the minimum is power size 3. If a closer is adjustable, it must be capable of being set to at least size 3, and the installation instructions should say so. A closer that can’t reach size 3 isn’t suitable for a fire door, however well hidden it is.

The closer must be covered by the door’s test evidence

Approved Document B asks for fire door test evidence to apply to the complete installed assembly, and notes that small differences in detail can significantly affect the rating. Routing a large pocket into the door edge and frame removes material in exactly the place where fire tries to get through. That’s why fire-rated concealed closers come with specific instructions on intumescent protection. Stockists of the Powermatic R100, for example, say the closer and plates should be bedded in intumescent mastic and supply an intumescent kit separately.

In practice that means three checks:

1. The closer is certified to BS EN 1154, at power size 3 or above.
2. The closer has been tested or assessed on a fire door of the same type and rating as yours.
3. The door manufacturer’s evidence allows that closer to be fitted, with the specified intumescent kit.

If any of those are missing, don’t fit it to a fire door.

Closers and accessible doors

Closers have to strike a balance between shutting the door reliably and not making it too heavy to open. For buildings other than dwellings, Approved Document M Volume 2 sets a maximum opening force at the leading edge of 30N from closed to 30°, and 22.5N from 30° to 60°. That’s why manufacturers talk about closer “efficiency”: an efficient closer can close a fire door at power size 3 while still feeling light to open.

How to choose a concealed door closer

Run through these questions before you buy:

• Is it a fire door? If yes, follow the three checks above and choose a BS EN 1154 closer at power size 3 or above.
• How thick, wide and heavy is the door? Every closer has limits. Jamb-mounted models like the R100 need at least a 44mm door, and overhead integrated closers typically need 40mm or more.
• What hinges are you using? Concealed hinges and concealed closers have to work together. That’s why the R108 exists for Tectus hinges.
• Latched or unlatched? Some closers have adjustable latch action to pull the door positively onto a latch; check the closer is suitable for your setup.
• How far does the door need to open? Jamb closers often limit the opening angle (105° for the R100), so plan furniture and door stops around it.
• Do you need hold-open? On fire doors, Approved Document B only allows hold-open by specific means, such as an automatic release linked to a fire alarm system. A wedge is never acceptable.

If you’re buying a complete concealed door set, check which ironmongery the frame has been designed and tested with before adding a closer. A flush aluminium frame may not have room for a jamb closer, and modifying a tested fire doorset can invalidate its rating. Take a look at our concealed door frame details for how these frames are built.

Fitting and adjustment tips

• Fit intumescent protection as specified. On fire doors this isn’t optional.
• Adjust after hanging. Most controlled closers let you adjust closing speed and latch action once the door is in place. Aim for a door that closes fully onto the latch from any open position without slamming.
• Keep paint off moving parts. Paint on a closer, hinge or seal can stop it working properly.
• Check it regularly. In England, the Fire Safety (England) Regulations 2022 require responsible persons in multi-occupied residential buildings over 11 metres to check communal fire doors at least every three months, including that self-closing devices work.

Frequently asked questions

Can a concealed door closer be used on a fire door?

Yes, as long as the closer is certified to BS EN 1154 at power size 3 or above, has been fire tested or assessed for that type of door, and is fitted with the correct intumescent protection. Basic chain-spring closers are not suitable.

Do internal doors in a house need closers?

Under Approved Document B, fire doors within a house or flat don’t need self-closing devices. The door between a house and an integral garage is an exception and should be self-closing. Always check with building control for your project.

What is the difference between a Perko closer and a controlled concealed closer?

A basic Perko-style closer uses a spring and chain with no control over closing speed. A controlled closer adds hydraulics to regulate closing speed and latch action, and some are certified for fire doors.

Can I fit a concealed closer to an existing door?

Sometimes, if the door is thick and solid enough and the frame can be routed to suit. On a fire door, only do it if the door manufacturer’s evidence allows that closer. Otherwise, it’s safer to choose a door set designed for it.

Get the right hardware for your concealed door

Choosing a closer is easier when you start with the right door and frame. Browse our concealed and flush to wall doors and our concealed door hinges and magnetic latches, or contact us and we’ll help you check what your door set can take.