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Made-to-Measure Concealed Doors: A Practical Buyer’s Guide

A concealed door sits flush with the wall, with hidden hinges and no architrave, so it almost disappears once it’s painted. Ready-made concealed door sets suit plenty of projects. But openings don’t always come in standard sizes, and some designs call for a door that runs right up to the ceiling or a finish that a standard set can’t offer.

That’s where a made-to-measure concealed door comes in. This guide explains when you need one, what you can usually customise, what to confirm before you order, and how to plan the build so the finished door looks as good as the drawings.

Standard set or made to measure?

Start with the simplest question: will a standard size work? A ready-made concealed door set is usually quicker to get hold of and simpler to order. It’s the right choice if your opening is being built from scratch and you can size it to suit the door.

A made-to-measure door makes sense when:

  • The opening is a non-standard size, for example in an older property or a conversion where walls are already in place.
  • You want a taller door. Floor-to-ceiling concealed doors are a popular way to make a room feel taller and calmer. Our guide to floor-to-ceiling doors covers the design side.
  • You need several doors to line up, such as a run of hidden cupboards and room doors along one wall, all at the same head height.
  • You need a specific combination of opening direction, lock, fire rating or finish.

If you’re unsure, it’s worth measuring first and comparing your figures with the standard options before committing to bespoke.

What you can usually customise

The exact options depend on the system, so always check the product details. As an example, our Bespoke Concealed Door Set is listed with:

  • Bespoke leaf sizes to your requirements, made to measure up to 3m door height
  • a 56mm thick solid-core primed door slab, ready for painting or wallpapering
  • an extruded aluminium frame that’s hidden once plastered, available unpainted, painted white (RAL 9003) or anodised
  • 3D adjustable concealed hinges, only visible when the door is open
  • left or right, push or pull opening
  • a magnetic lock as standard, with options including a set of handles, a WC lock, a cylinder lock, an additional hinge, ventilation sleeves and a ventilation undercut

The listing gives a manufacturing lead time of 4 to 6 weeks, so build that into your programme.

For larger or more complex projects, our bespoke hidden door solutions page describes the Omega Flush system. It’s available for single or double doors, up to 3000mm high, with an FD30 fire-rated option, and is suitable for drywall and brick walls.

Decide these details before you order

A concealed door is built into the wall, so most decisions are fixed once the frame goes in. Agree these with your builder or designer first.

Opening direction: push or pull

On a push door, the leaf opens away from you and sits flush on your side. On a pull door, it opens towards you and sits flush on the other side. Only one face of the wall will be perfectly flush, so decide which room matters most. This also affects skirting and handles. Our guide to concealed door frame details explains the options.

Size and floor level

Measure the structural opening and know your finished floor level. Flooring, screed or underfloor heating can change the height you need, and a concealed door has no architrave to hide small errors. Our step-by-step guide on how to measure for a concealed door walks through it.

Wall type and thickness

Tell your supplier whether the wall is stud or masonry, and its finished thickness. The frame has to suit the wall, and the plaster or plasterboard finish needs to meet the frame edge cleanly.

Handles and locks

Many concealed doors use push-to-open latches or flush handles so nothing breaks the surface. A bathroom or WC will need a privacy lock. See our concealed door handles guide for the options.

Fire rating

If the door is on an escape route, opens onto a stairway in a home with a floor more than 4.5m above ground, or is between a house and an integral garage, it may need to be a fire door. Confirm the requirement with your building control body before you order, because a fire-rated door has to be supplied and fitted in line with its fire test evidence, and a door to an integral garage also needs a self-closing device. Our guide to FD30 concealed doors explains what that involves.

Hinges and weight

Taller and wider doors are heavier, and any panelling or cladding applied to the leaf adds weight too. Check the hinge specification suits the finished door. Our concealed door hinges guide covers what to look for.

How ordering usually works

Our made-to-measure service works in a simple way: you choose a style, send us your measurements, and we prepare drawings for you to check and sign off before anything is made. That sign-off step matters. It’s your chance to check every dimension, the opening direction and the hardware before production starts.

A few tips make the process smoother:

  • Measure the opening, not the old door. If you’re replacing an existing door, the old leaf tells you little about the opening behind it.
  • Measure more than once, at several points across the width and height.
  • Note anything unusual, such as an out-of-level floor or a wall that isn’t plumb.
  • Share drawings early if an architect or designer is involved.
  • Ask questions before you sign off. Changing a made-to-measure door after production starts is rarely possible.

Planning the build

Because the frame is plastered into the wall, the best time to fit a concealed door is while the wall is being built or replastered. Our product details for the bespoke set make the same point: the decision to fit one is best made at the wall construction stage.

On site, a few things help the finished result:

  • Fit the frame plumb, level and square, fixed securely to the structure.
  • Protect the frame while plastering and decorating.
  • Allow the plaster to dry properly before painting.
  • Hang and adjust the door last, using the hinge adjustment to get even gaps.

When it comes to decoration, paint the door and wall together for the most seamless look. Our guide on how to paint a concealed door covers preparation, paint choice and the edges.

Is a made-to-measure concealed door worth it?

A bespoke door costs more than a standard set and takes longer to arrive, so it isn’t always necessary. If your opening can be built to a standard size, a ready-made concealed door set may do the job perfectly well.

But if you’re working with an existing opening, want a door that runs to the ceiling, or need several doors to align across one wall, made to measure is often the only way to get the clean, uninterrupted finish that makes concealed doors appealing in the first place.

Frequently asked questions

What is a made-to-measure concealed door?

It’s a flush, frameless-looking door with a hidden frame and concealed hinges, made to the dimensions of your opening rather than in a standard size.

How tall can a made-to-measure concealed door be?

It depends on the system. Our Bespoke Concealed Door Set is listed as made to measure up to 3m door height, and the Omega Flush system is available up to 3000mm high.

How long does a bespoke concealed door take?

Lead times vary by product. Our Bespoke Concealed Door Set lists a manufacturing lead time of 4 to 6 weeks, so order well before your plasterer is booked.

Can a made-to-measure concealed door be fire rated?

Some systems offer an FD30 option, including Omega Flush. A fire door has to be fitted in line with its test evidence, so confirm the requirement with building control first.

Can I fit a concealed door into an existing wall?

Yes, but it usually means opening up the wall around the doorway, because the frame is plastered in. It’s easiest during a renovation or when the wall is being replastered anyway.

Plan your made-to-measure concealed door

Browse our concealed doors range, or contact our team with your measurements and we’ll help you work out the right option for your opening.

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