How to Choose Pocket Door Handles: Flush Pulls, Edge Pulls and Locks

Pocket doors are brilliant for saving space, but they can’t use the lever handles fitted to the rest of your doors. Anything that sticks out from the face of the door will hit the frame as the door slides into the wall. So pocket doors have their own family of handles, designed to sit flush with the door surface.

Getting the handles right makes a big difference to how a pocket door feels every day. This guide covers the main types, how to match them to your door and room, and the details that trip people up.

Why pocket doors need different handles

A pocket door slides into a narrow cavity inside the wall. A standard lever or knob would either jam against the jamb or stop the door from going into the pocket. Pocket door handles solve this by being recessed into the door, so nothing projects beyond the face.

Most pocket doors need two things:

• A way to slide the door open and closed from either side. That’s usually a flush pull on each face.
• A way to pull the door back out of the pocket. That’s an edge pull, or a door stop set so part of the door stays visible.

The main types of pocket door handle

Flush pulls

A flush pull is a shallow cup recessed into the face of the door, giving you somewhere to put your fingertips. They come in round and square shapes and in finishes such as satin chrome and matt black.

To give an idea of sizes, Manital’s ART54A set uses round pulls 57mm across that sit in a 48mm hole recessed 11mm into the door. Italian-made AURA pulls are 60mm across and also need a 48mm hole. Sizes vary between brands, so always work from the manufacturer’s template.

Our own round satin flush pulls come as a kit with two flush pulls and a finger pull for the leading edge, and suit 35mm and 44mm doors.

Edge pulls (finger pulls)

An edge pull fits into the leading edge of the door, the edge you see when the door is open. It has a small tab that flips out so you can draw the door out of the pocket, then folds back flush. Many flush pull sets include one, so check before buying a separate one.

Privacy and bathroom locks

For bathrooms, ensuites and bedrooms you’ll want a lock. Pocket door privacy locks usually use a hook mechanism instead of a normal latch bolt: turning the thumbturn swings a hook into a keep on the frame, so the door can’t be slid open. The other side has an emergency release you can open with a coin.

Eclisse’s square privacy lock set is typical. It includes a handle with an integral thumbturn, a handle with an emergency coin release, the locking mechanism and an edge finger pull, and suits 35mm and 44mm doors. Eclisse also points out that this lock won’t let the door go fully flush into the pocket.

We cover bathroom-specific advice in our guide to pocket doors for bathrooms and ensuites.

Rectangular privacy handles

Some ranges combine a long rectangular pull with a privacy lock in one piece. LPD’s Aries and Gemini pocket door ranges, for example, use rectangular plates around 180mm tall. They give a bigger grip than a small round pull and look smart on modern flush doors. You’ll find the LPD Gemini range and others in our pocket door hardware section.

Sliding door locksets

A lockset combines pulls and a locking mechanism in a single kit. The XL Joinery sliding door lockset we stock is listed for doors 40mm to 48mm thick.

How to choose pocket door handles

1. Decide what the door needs to do

Ask how the room will be used:

• Cupboards, utility rooms, open-plan links: flush pulls and an edge pull are usually enough.
• Bathrooms, ensuites, WCs: a privacy lock with an emergency release.
• Bedrooms and home offices: a privacy lock is useful, or simple pulls if you don’t need to lock it.

2. Check the door thickness

This is the most common mistake. Pocket door hardware is made for specific door thicknesses, often 35mm and 44mm. A recess that’s too deep for a thin door can break through the other side, and locking mechanisms need enough timber to hold them. Measure your door before ordering, and check the product says it suits that thickness.

3. Think about how far the door goes into the pocket

If you want the door to disappear completely into the wall, you’ll rely on the edge pull to get it back out. But there’s a safety point here. One UK supplier of AURA flush pulls recommends setting the door stop so the door protrudes slightly from the pocket, to avoid the risk of trapping fingers, and says it accepts no liability if the door is adjusted to go fully into the pocket.

Leaving the door a little proud of the frame also makes it easier to grab, and some locks need it anyway. The trade-off is slightly less clear opening width, so factor that into your plans.

4. Think about who will use it

Small flush pulls need a fingertip grip, which some people find awkward, especially with arthritis or limited hand strength. If that matters in your home, look for larger rectangular pulls, or set the door stop so the door stays partly out of the pocket and is easy to grab.

5. Check fire door compatibility

If your pocket door is part of a fire-rated system, the handles and locks need to be compatible with that system’s test evidence. Our round and square flush pull kits are listed as suitable for FD30 fire-rated doors, but always check the instructions for your FD30 pocket door kit. Our article on FD30 pocket doors explains why the whole assembly matters.

6. Match your other ironmongery

Pocket doors are often seen alongside hinged doors in the same hallway, so pick a finish that ties in with your lever handles. Satin chrome and matt black are both widely available in pocket door ranges.

Fitting tips

• Fit handles before the door is hung. It’s much easier to cut accurate recesses with the door flat on a bench.
• Use the template. Mark the centre line and height carefully so handles on both faces line up.
• Drill cleanly. Round flush pulls usually sit in a bored hole; square pulls and locks need routed recesses.
• Follow the fixing method. Some flush pulls are push-fit or bonded rather than screwed. AURA pulls, for example, are fixed with adhesive or silicone.
• Set the door stop last. Once the handles are on, adjust the stop so the door sits where you want it when open.
• Double doors need two sets. Each leaf needs its own pulls. Our flush pull kits are sold per door.

If you’re still choosing the pocket door itself, our pocket door kits range covers single, double, frameless and fire-rated options. For a wider look at tracks, soft close and other parts, see our complete guide to pocket door hardware.

Frequently asked questions

Can I use normal door handles on a pocket door?

Not on a door that slides fully into the wall, because a projecting lever or knob would hit the frame. Pocket doors need flush or low-profile hardware. A standard handle can only work if the door never enters the pocket beyond it.

How do you open a pocket door that’s fully in the wall?

With an edge pull fitted to the leading edge of the door. You flip out the small tab and use it to slide the door back out. Many flush pull sets include one.

Can you lock a pocket door?

Yes. Pocket door privacy locks use a hook that engages with a keep on the frame, operated by a thumbturn on one side, with an emergency release on the other.

What size hole do flush pulls need?

It depends on the product. As an example, Manital’s ART54A and AURA round pulls both need a 48mm hole. Always follow the manufacturer’s template.

Do pocket door handles work on 35mm doors?

Many do, but not all. Lots of sets are made for 35mm and 44mm doors, while some locksets are designed for thicker doors. Check the product details before ordering.

Find the right handles for your pocket door

Whether you need simple flush pulls for a cupboard or a privacy lock for an ensuite, browse our full range of pocket door handles and hardware, or contact us if you’d like help matching handles to your door.