Flush to Wall Doors: What They Are and How to Get One Right

A flush to wall door sits in the same plane as the wall around it. There’s no architrave, no visible door lining and no step between the door face and the plaster. Paint the door and wall the same colour and, apart from a fine shadow gap and perhaps a handle, it almost disappears.

They’re increasingly popular in modern homes, and in period renovations where the owner wants a calm, uncluttered hallway. But a flush door depends on getting a few details right early. This guide explains how they work, what to decide before you order, and when they’re the right choice.

What is a flush to wall door?

A flush to wall door is a hinged door set into a hidden frame, so the face of the door lines up with the finished wall. You may also see it called a concealed door, a frameless door, an invisible door or a flush door system. The names overlap, and they all describe the same basic idea: a door with no visible frame.

It’s different from a jib door in one respect. A traditional jib door is disguised by carrying the room’s decoration across it, such as skirting, dado rails or wallpaper. A flush to wall door doesn’t have to be disguised. It can be painted a contrasting colour and still look clean, because the frame itself is hidden. Our guide to jib doors explains the difference in more detail.

How the hidden frame works

The trick is in the frame. Instead of a timber lining covered with architrave, a flush to wall door uses a concealed frame, usually an aluminium profile, that’s fixed into the opening before the wall is finished.

Italian door maker FIP Porte describes it clearly in its installation guidance: the aluminium frame is fixed into the wall and disappears under the finish, which is why the door is installed while the wall is being built, not afterwards. The plasterboard or plaster is then brought up to the edge of the frame, and the frame sets the line that the board and skim coat follow.

Once it’s painted, only a crisp edge remains visible. The door leaf hangs on concealed hinges inside the frame. For a deeper technical look, see our guide to concealed door frame details.

Push or pull: only one side is flush

This catches a lot of people out. A hinged flush to wall door is flush on one face of the wall only. On the other side, you’ll see the door set back into the opening, with a reveal.

Manufacturers handle this with push and pull versions:

• Push: the door opens away from you, and the side you push from is flush.
• Pull: the door opens towards you, and the side you pull from is flush.

Decide which room matters most visually. In most homes, that’s the hallway or living space, with the reveal on the bedroom, cupboard or utility side. Some systems are reversible. Our xREVERx flush reversible hinged door system can be set up for left or right opening and for push or pull by turning the frame, but the direction still has to be decided before the frame is fixed and finished.

Wall types

Flush to wall door systems are made for both main types of internal wall.

Plasterboard stud walls

In a stud wall, the frame is fixed to the studwork, then the boards are screwed to the edge of the frame. FIP Porte’s sequence is to plumb the door, screw the frame to the structure, board up to the edge of the frame, then fill the joint. The joints between board and frame usually need reinforcing with tape or mesh, as specified by the maker.

Masonry walls

In masonry, the frame is fixed into the opening and then plastered up to. The xREVERx system, for example, can be installed in both plastered masonry and plasterboard walls, with separate details for each. Always follow the details for the system you’re using.

Either way, the plasterer needs to know the exact finish line before they start. The frame is the guide, so it has to be fixed accurately first.

Hinges, latches and handles

Because there’s no visible frame, the hardware is hidden too.

• Hinges are concealed inside the frame and door edge. FIP Porte notes that its concealed hinges are adjusted with an Allen key, which is typical. Check the weight limit of the hinges against your door, particularly if you plan to add a heavy finish. Our concealed door hinges guide explains the options.
• Latches are often magnetic, so there’s no sprung latch tongue showing when the door is open.
• Handles can be standard levers, minimal flush pulls, or nothing at all on a push-to-open setup. Our concealed door handles guide covers the choices.

You’ll find hinges, magnetic latches and handles in our concealed door hinges, latches and handles range.

Floors and skirting

With no architrave to hide the edges, the floor and skirting need thought.

• Finished floor level. The frame has to be set at the right height relative to the finished floor, not the bare subfloor. FIP Porte’s instructions, for example, set the door 6mm off the floor with a wedge during installation. Agree the finished floor build-up with your builder before the frame goes in.
• Skirting. On the flush side, skirting usually stops neatly at the frame edge or is recessed flush with the wall. Decide this early so the frame and skirting details match.

Painting and finishing

A flush to wall door looks its best when the door, frame edge and wall are finished together. FIP Porte recommends painting both sides at the same time. Many flush doors are supplied primed for painting. Our guide on how to paint a concealed door covers preparation, products and keeping the gaps crisp.

Is a flush to wall door right for you?

A flush to wall door is a good choice if:

• you’re renovating or building, so the frame can go in before plastering
• you want a minimal look without architrave
• you’d like a door to blend into a feature wall, such as a hidden ensuite or cupboard
• your walls are, or can be made, straight and true

It’s less suitable if:

• the walls are already finished and you don’t want to cut back and make good the plaster
• you need both sides of the wall to be flush on a hinged door
• you’d prefer a door that’s quick to swap later

If floor space is the bigger problem, a pocket door might suit you better. Our comparison of pocket doors vs concealed doors weighs up both.

Fire-rated flush doors

Flush to wall doors can be fire rated when the whole assembly is certified. We stock an FD30 flush concealed fire door. As with any fire door, the door, frame and ironmongery should be treated as one tested assembly and fitted exactly as specified.

Frequently asked questions

What is a flush to wall door?

It’s a hinged door hung in a concealed frame so the door face sits level with the finished wall. There’s no architrave or visible lining, just a fine shadow gap around the door.

Is a flush to wall door flush on both sides?

No. A hinged flush door is flush on one face only. Choose a push or pull version depending on which side you want flush.

Can I fit a flush to wall door into an existing wall?

It’s possible, but the frame is designed to go in before the wall is finished. In a finished wall, expect to cut back the plaster or board around the opening and make good afterwards.

Do flush to wall doors need special hinges?

Yes. They use concealed hinges hidden in the frame and door edge, usually adjustable with an Allen key. Check the hinge weight limit against your door.

Can a flush to wall door be painted?

Yes. Many are supplied primed, ready to paint. For the cleanest result, paint the door, frame edge and wall together.

Find your flush to wall door

Browse our concealed and flush to wall doors, or ask about a door made to fit your opening through our made-to-measure service. Need help with sizes or push and pull? Contact our team.