A pocket door slides into a cavity inside the wall, so it takes up no floor space when open. That makes it a brilliant fix for tight en-suites, cloakrooms and utility rooms. The catch is that a pocket door is only as good as its installation. Once the wall is boarded and decorated, the frame is sealed inside, so getting it right first time really matters.
This pocket door installation guide walks through the planning, the build and the finishing, based on the fitting guidance published by UK kit manufacturers. Always follow the instructions supplied with your specific kit, as details differ between brands.
Before you start: is your wall suitable?
Check the wall type
Pocket door kits are designed to be built into a stud partition. The frame replaces part of the studwork and is then boarded over like the rest of the wall.
If the wall is masonry or load-bearing, it’s a different job. Pocket door specialists point out that the pocket door frame itself is not load-bearing, and that a pocket needs an opening roughly twice the width of the door, so any header across a load-bearing wall has to span much further than a normal door lintel. Their advice is to consult a structural engineer, or to build a new stud wall alongside the existing one and put the pocket in that instead.
Check what’s in the wall
The pocket must be clear. There’s no room for cables, pipes, sockets or switches in the section of wall the door slides into. Plan to move light switches to the other side of the opening and reroute services before you start.
Check you have the length
The wall needs to accommodate the opening plus a pocket the same width as the door, and the kit’s frame. Each manufacturer publishes an overall frame size for each door size. For example, Eclisse’s technical sheet for its FD30 single system lists an overall frame width of 1,631mm for a 762 x 1981mm door. Check the figure for your kit, not a rule of thumb.
Choosing the right kit
Match the kit to your studwork
Kits are built for specific stud sizes, and that sets your finished wall thickness. Rocket Door Frames, for instance, offers:
- a 70mm frame for 63mm CLS or 70mm steel studs, giving a 95mm finished wall with 12.5mm plasterboard each side (63mm CLS needs a 6mm ply packer on one side)
- a 75mm frame for 75mm or 100mm timber studs, giving 100mm or 125mm finished walls
- a 90mm frame for 89mm CLS or 92mm steel studs, giving a 115mm finished wall
We stock the 70mm, 75mm and 90mm kits, each suitable for 35-44mm thick doors up to 60kg.
Match the kit to your door
Most kits are made for standard UK door sizes, such as 686, 762 and 838mm wide at 1981mm high, or 726, 826 and 926mm wide at 2040mm high. Order the kit for the exact door size you’ll hang. Check the door’s thickness and weight against the kit’s limits too.
Decide on extras now
Soft-close, self-closing mechanisms, jamb kits and pocket door handles or privacy locks are much easier to plan before the wall is closed. Our Easi pocket door kit comes with soft close for doors up to 40kg, and the pocket fixing kit page lists soft-close and self-closing add-ons.
Fire doors
If the opening needs a fire door, you must use a fire-rated pocket system with the matching certified door, jambs and seals. A standard kit can’t be upgraded. Our pocket door systems page includes FD30 fire-rated kits.
Tools and materials you’ll need
Kits vary, but you’ll usually need to supply:
- the door panel
- studwork to suit the frame
- plasterboard (typically 12.5mm)
- screws suitable for fixing plasterboard to the frame (some kits include them)
- a spirit level, tape measure, drill and saw
- door handles or flush pulls designed for sliding doors
Step-by-step pocket door installation
1. Form the opening
Build or adjust the stud partition to create a structural opening that matches the kit’s overall dimensions. Make sure it’s square and plumb. The header area above needs to be solid enough to fix the track to.
2. Check the floor level
Many manufacturers specify installing the frame at finished floor level. Eclisse’s FD30 technical sheet, for example, says the frame “should be installed at finished floor level”. Allow for flooring thickness so the door doesn’t scrape or leave an ugly gap later.
3. Assemble the frame
Assemble the track, uprights and brackets as per the instructions. Some kits come largely pre-assembled. Check the track runs freely before going further.
4. Fix the frame into the opening
Position the frame, check it’s level and plumb in every direction, and fix it to the studwork. A pocket frame that is twisted even slightly will cause the door to rub inside the wall.
5. Test-hang the door
Before boarding, fit the runners to the top of the door, hang it and slide it in and out. Adjust the height and check that it runs smoothly and parks where you want. This is the cheapest moment to fix any problem.
6. Board the wall
Remove the door, then plasterboard over the frame and studwork. Use screws of the length specified by the manufacturer. Screws that are too long will poke into the pocket and scratch the door, which is one of the most common mistakes.
7. Fit the jambs and finish
Fit the jamb or lining kit, any brushes and the floor guide, then plaster or tape and fill, and decorate.
8. Rehang, adjust and add hardware
Hang the door for good, adjust the stops so it protrudes from the pocket by the right amount, and fit flush pulls or a privacy lock. Eclisse recommends setting the stop so the door sticks out of the pocket when fitted with flush pulls, to avoid trapping fingers.
Common pocket door installation mistakes
- Running cables through the pocket. There’s no space, and screws can damage them.
- Over-long plasterboard screws scratching the door.
- Hanging off-level, so the door drifts open or closed on its own.
- Forgetting the flooring, leaving the door too high or too low.
- Ordering the wrong kit size for the door or studwork.
Is it a DIY job?
A competent DIYer comfortable with stud walls and plasterboard can install a pocket door, especially in new studwork. Retrofitting into an existing wall, anything involving a load-bearing wall, or a fire-rated installation is best left to a professional joiner or builder.
Frequently asked questions
How long does pocket door installation take?
It depends on the wall. Building a kit into new studwork is a much smaller job than opening up an existing wall, rerouting services and making good. Ask your installer for a quote based on your wall.
Can a pocket door be installed in an existing wall?
Yes, but usually the section of wall where the pocket will go has to be opened up and rebuilt around the frame. With masonry or load-bearing walls, get structural advice first.
Can I put a light switch on the pocket side of the wall?
No. The pocket needs to be completely clear, so switches and sockets should go on the other side of the opening.
What size pocket door kit do I need?
Choose a kit for your exact door size and your stud width. The stud width, plus the plasterboard each side, sets your finished wall thickness.
Do I need a soft-close?
It’s optional, but it stops the door slamming into the frame and is easier to fit before the wall is closed.
Get the right kit before you build
Browse our pocket door systems to find a kit to suit your studwork and door size, or call us if you’d like help choosing.
