Most UK pocket door projects use a standard kit and a standard leaf. That is the right starting point: it is quicker, cheaper and easier to specify. Sometimes, though, the opening, the wall or the design will not match anything on a size chart. That is when made-to-measure pocket doors earn their place.
This guide explains what “made to measure” usually means for pocket doors, when you need it, what to measure, and how to avoid ordering a custom leaf for a kit that cannot take it.
What made-to-measure means for pocket doors
A pocket door has two main parts: the pocket frame and track (the kit) and the door leaf. Either or both can be non-standard.
Custom kit (cassette / frame)
Some manufacturers and stockists supply pocket frames cut or built to non-standard widths and heights. Industry examples include bespoke single leaves in ranges roughly from about 585–1300mm wide and 500–2600mm high, with matching double ranges that pair two such leaves. Oversized specialist systems go further: some UK makers list individual leaves up to around 1500mm wide and 2700mm high as standard product, with larger sizes on request. Always check the sheet for the exact system you are buying — limits and lead times vary.
Custom door leaf
You may keep a standard kit but order a leaf cut to the kit’s maximum size, or a taller, wider, glass or special-finish leaf that still sits inside the kit’s weight and thickness limits. Trimming a stock door a long way can weaken stiles and lips; past a small trim allowance, a purpose-made leaf is safer.
Custom kit and leaf together
Full made-to-measure sets are common on renovations with odd openings, loft conversions, period homes and open-plan dividers that need a specific clear opening. Our made-to-measure service covers non-standard work; for flush hinged doors rather than pockets, see also made-to-measure concealed doors.
When a standard kit is enough
Stay with a standard pocket door kit if:
- your clear opening matches a published passage size on the kit chart
- the leaf size, thickness and weight sit inside the kit limits
- the finished wall thickness matches a stock frame (commonly around 100mm, 115mm or 125mm)
- you can accept a standard jamb and architrave look, or a stock flush option from the same range
Standard UK imperial and metric leaf sizes (for example 762 × 1981mm or 826 × 2040mm) cover a large share of new partitions. Our pocket door sizes guide shows how leaf, passage and overall frame relate, and the pocket door wall thickness guide helps you match studwork to a stock frame.
When made-to-measure is the better route
Consider a custom kit, leaf or both if:
- the structural opening is between chart sizes and you cannot alter the wall to suit a stock frame
- you need a taller door for a high ceiling or a shorter door under a beam or stair soffit
- you want a wide clear opening that exceeds a single stock leaf, and a double or telescopic stock option still does not fit
- the design calls for a matching set of doors across the house in one finish and size
- you are working in a period home where original openings sit 30–80mm off modern stock sizes
- you need glass, fire-rated or particularly heavy leaves that stock kits in your wall thickness cannot take
Period and loft projects often need this flexibility — see pocket doors for period homes and pocket doors for loft conversions. For fire-rated openings, start with tested systems and FD30 pocket doors explained rather than adapting a non-rated custom leaf.
What to measure before you order
Order from measured reality, not from the architect’s first sketch alone. Confirm:
- Finished clear opening (passage) — width and height you want when the door is open.
- Overall wall length available — opening plus pocket run on one side (or both for a double).
- Finished wall thickness — stud or frame depth plus plasterboard on each side (and any double boarding).
- Finished floor level — most kits install at finished floor level; allow for the final floor build-up so the leaf does not drag.
- Door thickness and weight — timber, glass or fire-rated leaves have different weights; stay inside the kit rating.
- Services in the pocket zone — pipes, cables, switches and radiators must sit outside the cavity.
If the wall already exists, open it up or use drawings and a careful survey before you commit. Our pocket door installation guide and pocket door frame guide set out the build sequence once sizes are fixed.
For hinged concealed doors the measuring logic is different (leaf to frame gaps, hinge side, latch side). If you are comparing systems, read how to measure for a concealed door alongside this guide so you do not mix the two.
Lead times and drawings
Lead times vary by supplier and how custom the order is. Some stockists advertise quick-turn bespoke frames in a matter of working days after drawing sign-off for defined size bands. Fully workshop-made leaves and joinery packages more often run to several weeks from signed drawings. Specialist oversized systems usually include manufacturing drawings before fabrication.
Practical rules:
- do not order until opening width, height, wall thickness and handing are agreed
- ask for drawings that show overall frame, passage and leaf sizes
- confirm whether soft close, jambs, brush seals and floor guides are included
- check whether plasterboard, the door leaf and architraves are supplied or bought separately
Hardware still needs planning: flush pulls, edge pulls and any lock must suit the leaf thickness. See how to choose pocket door handles, the pocket door locks guide and pocket door hardware. Soft close is worth specifying on busy doors — see the soft-close pocket doors guide.
Cost expectations (without guesswork)
Made-to-measure costs more than a stock kit and stock leaf. You pay for non-standard fabrication, drawings and often longer logistics. Exact figures depend on size, finish, glass, fire rating and whether you need a single or double frame, so treat catalogue prices for standard kits as a baseline rather than a quote.
What usually drives the price up:
- height and width beyond the stock chart
- double or telescopic configurations
- glass or fire-rated leaves
- special finishes or matching joinery elsewhere in the house
- site survey and fitting if you buy a supply-and-fit package
Ask for a written quote against measured sizes. Avoid trimming a cheap stock door aggressively to “make it fit” — you can remove too much stile and end up with a weak leaf that still does not look right.
Common mistakes to avoid
- Ordering a custom leaf that exceeds the kit’s weight or thickness limit
- Measuring rough opening before deciding finished floor and plaster thickness
- Forgetting that the overall frame is much wider than the clear opening
- Planning a double when only one pocket wall is clear
- Assuming a custom pocket door can be a fire door without a tested system
- Leaving soft close, locks and flush pulls as an afterthought
If a flush hinged look is what you actually want, compare pocket door vs concealed door and flush to wall doors before you commit to a pocket cassette.
Frequently asked questions
Can any pocket door kit be made to measure?
No. Some ranges offer defined bespoke size bands; others are stock sizes only. Oversized specialist systems cover larger leaves but still have published limits. Check before you design the wall around a size the maker cannot supply.
Can I use a made-to-measure leaf in a standard kit?
Yes, if the leaf width, height, thickness and weight sit inside that kit’s limits. Confirm the maximums on the technical sheet and allow for hardware cut-outs.
How long do made-to-measure pocket doors take?
It depends on the supplier. Some bespoke frames within set size bands are advertised in a few working days after drawings are signed; fully custom leaves and joinery more often take several weeks. Ask for a dated lead time on your quote.
Do I need a site survey?
For straightforward stock sizes, careful DIY measuring can be enough. For odd openings, renovations and supply-and-fit packages, a survey reduces the risk of ordering the wrong overall frame.
Are made-to-measure pocket doors suitable for fire doors?
Only when the complete system — frame, leaf, seals and hardware — is tested and specified as fire-rated. A custom decorative leaf in a non-rated kit is not an FD30 door. See fire doors and FD30 door requirements.
Measure twice, then decide stock or bespoke
Start with the clear opening and wall thickness you need. If a stock kit and leaf cover it, buy stock. If the opening, height or design sits between chart sizes, a made-to-measure pocket door kit or leaf is the cleaner answer. Browse our pocket door kits for standard options, or use made-to-measure when the opening will not cooperate. Send the passage size, overall wall length and finished wall thickness and we will help you see whether stock or bespoke is the right route.
